Care Tips for Terrarium Plants

Bromeliads

• Bromeliads must always be cultivated epiphytically in terrariums.

• Species with hard or red-toned leaves require the brightest location.

• Green-leaved and soft-leaved varieties tolerate lower light levels.

• The central cups of bromeliads must always be filled with water.

Orchids

• Orchids should be cultivated epiphytically.

• Plants with small or large pseudobulbs (water storage organs) need more light and the driest spot in a humid terrarium.

• Orchids without pseudobulbs tolerate more moisture and less light.

Mosses

• Mosses thrive best in consistently moist environments.

• Tap water causes rapid die-off due to its high lime content.

Excerpt from Our Book

Why some plants in terrariums fail to grow or bloom can depend on various factors. Even two identically equipped terrariums placed in rooms of different sizes can yield very different results in plant development.

One possible reason for poor growth in smaller rooms is insufficient ventilation and a lower air volume, which limits the plants’ ability to absorb CO₂ — a vital component for growth. That’s why strong ventilation at least every two days is essential for proper gas exchange.

Another common issue in large or tall terrariums is inadequate lighting in the middle and lower sections. Fluorescent tubes are not enough! Poor lighting is the most frequent cultivation mistake, but it’s easily corrected with proper lighting systems. Right after “too little light,” the second most common issue in 90% of terrariums is “too much water.”

While there’s no universal care formula for every terrarium size — since each artificial habitat varies in dimensions and temperature — a general trend toward less water and more mist can prevent many problems.

For example, a large terrarium measuring 180 × 100 × 150 cm (L × W × H), equipped with eight rain nozzles and a misting system, is watered once daily (in the morning) and misted three to four times for 20 minutes each. This is fully sufficient, and the plants thrive! Once a week, we skip watering and misting entirely. The key is maintaining high humidity while keeping the plants themselves dry, especially in the evening. Too much water quickly leads to rot and dieback.

After watering, it’s helpful to switch on a fan to dry the plants faster and remove stale air. At night, the fan should run continuously to provide cooling and fresh air. Constant air movement also helps prevent fungal infections in plants and animals.

The true art of the green thumb lies in maintaining high humidity with minimal water, ensuring low root moisture and optimal growth conditions.

Another reason why some bromeliads or orchids refuse to bloom is the lack of temperature variation. In nature, day and night temperatures often differ significantly. This fluctuation is essential for healthy growth in terrariums too. Only the drop in nighttime temperature signals many orchids and bromeliads that it’s time to reproduce and bloom (depending on the species and season). The message is clear: avoid stagnant conditions — vary day and night temperatures, and use fans in intervals to cool when needed.

When setting up a new terrarium, it takes about 6–10 weeks for the microclimate to stabilize and for the caretaker to find the right rhythm. Animals should only be introduced after this period, once the plants have established themselves — ensuring a functioning biotope for proper care.

And of course, species conservation is priority number one: only cultivated plants should be used.